Mumbai or erstwhile Bombay has long been synonymous with its Irani cafes but these charming establishments which were once the heart and soul of the city’s social fabric now seem to be wilting like summer blooms do during fall.
With their distinctive ambience, marked by vintage décor, checkered tablecloths, and an air thick with nostalgia, Irani cafes had become an indelible part of the city.
Among one of the few surviving true blue Irani cafes is Kyani & Co which still boasts of vintage furniture and flooring. The owner of the popular heritage establishment Farokh Shokri, in a conversation with mid-day, says that he has not changed either the vintage chairs, tables or the tiles that lend the cafe a distinct character.
Situated near the Art Deco Metro cinema in yet another busy intersection of South Mumbai, the Irani cafe was established in 1904 by an Iranian gentleman named Khodram Marezban and the cafe has been run by the Shokri family since 1959.
Digital storyteller, and heritage & history enthusiast Raunak Ramteke told mid-day that Irani cafes gave the working class population a place to grab a quick tea and quick snack at an affordable price. “These places were the start of the ‘Cafe Culture’ in the city,” Ramteke quipped.
Decline of Irani Cafes
However, with time, some of these cultural institutions had to face significant difficulties. Rapid urbanisation, changing dining habits, and the financial pressure of preserving heritage places have all contributed to their demise.
Rising real estate costs in excellent locations have forced the owners of Irani cafés to close, leaving a significant hole in the city`s culinary and cultural life.
Shokri recounted that up until the 1970s, there were many Irani cafes and with the Maharashtra government issuing licences for alcohol, many became permit rooms or pubs.
“By the 1980s, there were as many as 360 Irani cafes like Kyani & Co that served chai, bun maska and other delicacies. At present, there are only 25 such establishments in the city,” he added.
While Raunak added, “Almost all of them are family-run businesses and for most cafes, the newer generations of their families are not willing to take the business forward. Because of this, there`s a slow decline in their services and even their existence as there`s hardly anyone to take it forward. The other reason for the decline of these places is the competition and the changing needs of the customers.”
The changing landscape of Irani Cafes
Simin Patel, the founder and director of Bombaywalla Historical Works, said she believes that Irani cafes—which were the first spaces of interdining in the city—were neighbourhood institutions rather than belonging to a particular community. When questioned about what would she attribute to fading Irani cafes, she said, “With changing neighbourhoods, the patrons of the cafes have changed over time.”
Farokh Shokri, who is currently at the helm of affairs at Kyani & Co., narrated an interesting story on how Irani cafes were started in the city.
“Many Iranians who had migrated to India during the 1900s would come together in evenings after a hard day of work at Parsi houses, make tea and serve among themselves. One day, these people, especially Zoroastrian Iranis, decided to start their own establishment. At the time, India was under British Rule and there were many vacant places available,” Shokri said.
He added that these establishments served tea, the classic bun maska (buns with a thick layer of butter); since bakeries were attached to these establishments, they began selling baked goodies like khari. Omelette and other delicacies soon joined the list.
Kunal Vijaykar, a renowned food writer, author and television personality, noted, “A famous legend says that Hindus thought having shops set up in corners would be bad luck. The spaces were available for cheaper rates since there were not many takers.”
Meanwhile, Vijaykar added that gastronomically, the Irani cafes popularised baking in India; he said, “Baking always had a French or Portuguese hue and was not native to India. It was the Irani persons, through cafes and bakeries, that popularised baked goods like biscuits, bread, buns, etc.
Patel says a recipe for an Irani cafe is in its space which includes photos of your ancestors, a marble top, checkered cloth and panelling of the walls, and furniture like chairs made from Bent Wood.
“There are cafes in global cities that have tried to recreate a fell of Mumbai’s Irani cafe at their eateries,” Patel added.
Shokri, when asked about the challenges he faced, said, “Over the years I have not changed anything. Of course, I have added more dishes to the menu and brought appliances like a refrigerator. Otherwise, everything is the same. There have been no changes as such.”
When asked about how changes in patronage have affected the eatery, he said, “The market is growing. People will come, they will taste your food. Then go to another shop, and taste their food. The consumers have a wide range of opinions.”
He added that his business mantra is to focus on serving quality food, providing quality service and presenting the eaters with cost-effective food.
Vijaykar noted that it was saddening that the Irani cafes are fading into oblivion.
He said, “Every time anything that has historical value shuts down I feel sad since a new generation is being left out of something. We are moving so fast but we are forgetting where we come from, our history and our roots which are very important for our future.”
Preservation efforts
Calls for the preservation of heritage buildings, and spaces have increased and similar concerted efforts are being made to preserve the treasured culinary heritage—the Irani cafe.
Farokh Shokri shared that Kyani & Co is one of the places listed on the Maharashtra government’s heritage tour. He added that the eatery is nestled in a heritage building.
“I have been suggesting that the old eateries that are nestled in heritage buildings be given heritage status,” he said.
Food writer Jaykar stated that the owners should look into commercialising the space without having changed the ambience.
Meanwhile, Raunak explained that chains like SodaBottlerOpenerWalla and establishments like Cafe Military, Cafe Irani Chai or Jimmy Boy have tried to innovate and make themselves relevant for today`s generation.
He further stated, “One way the community or the people who love these cafes and cuisines can create more awareness and preserve the culture is by documenting these places, organising Irani/Parsi food festivals/Pop-ups, or even small things like taking their family/friends from other cities to these places when they visit Mumbai.”
Simin Patel, speaking on the preservation of Irani cafes, “It is for the community and the shop owners who need to figure out how to look at it. The government can step in if these cafes are in heritage buildings.”
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